Flat Broke Foodie

I have been in a rut.

I think all good cooks find themselves in a culinary slump.  Mine? Probably a combination of exhaustion, belt tightening after the holidays and pure laziness. I have been making the same three dishes in rotation for about a month.  I have also become a short order cook for my three year old, who has finally decided to eat something besides peanut butter and hummus.

With that prelude I left the house this morning, took a coffee and sat in the sun that has finally graced Setubal with it’s presence after months of rain, yet again uninspired. In times of melancholy I have always relied on my reading as an oracle.  I am a voracious reader. It’s hereditary.  Whenever I need guidance I think back to novels, biographies, articles and poems to guide me.  This morning I thought of all the ex-pat writers and their stories I have cherished over the years and it was clear what I had to do.  I had to go to the butcher.

I grabbed by shopping bag and bid the café good day.  In Europe you have a relationship with your butcher, he knows when you have a cold, when someone has died, and when you need help with dinner even if he doesn’t know your last name.

I have two butchers, my mother-in-law’s, whom I go to for big and complicated orders where it takes Alfredo, Daliah and myself to communicate what I want, such as a whole turkey, gutted with no head or neck for Thanksgiving or a leg of lamb with the upper thigh bone carved out for stuffing, and I have my neighborhood butcher in Praca do Brazil.  His shop is on the way to my son’s school and every morning he rushes out to wave to us. Every afternoon he does the same calling “Ate Amanha!” (See you tomorrow).

His case is a cornucopia of animal, organ, sausage and foot.  I have never seen a boneless, skinless chicken breast or a pre-skewered kebab in his shop, nor will I… ever.  When I cross his threshold he tells me what is best while, without asking, he begins to grind a fresh bit of beef for my son. “To make him strong,” he says.  What ever I order he tells me how to cook:  how to split the casing on his fresh sausages, what to add to the pressure cooker to make my veal stew perfectly, how much blood I should buy to season my chicken (it is quite good and tastes nothing like you’d think) and always wants me to buy rabbit, which I just cannot do.  I never refuse it when served at a dinner but I just cannot cook it, which he thinks is funny.

Today I left with my bit of beef and the most beautiful long fresh sausages, salsichas in Portuguese, which I am going to sauté up with onion, carrot, hard boiled egg and spice, make into a filling for lettuce wraps and serve with dirty rice and a chickpea salad.  Finally.  Inspiration.

Here are some of my favorite ex-pat chronicles for you to pick up at your local library. May they take you on a virtual vacation, make you laugh, make you cry and bring you inspiration.

Brunch may be my favorite word besides booze.  I think there is nothing more wonderful than a late morning consumption of tasty treats with dark black coffee and friends (and sometimes booze).

When my son was 2 months old Alfredo and I put him in a baby bjorn, zipped him into our coats and hopped a plane to NYC to see our best friends Jo and Sarah in Queens.  We were met with love and with brunch: eggs benedict and bloody marys.  It was perfection. The kind of brunch that warms and welcomes you.

This feeling is my goal when I host a brunch.  Food has power. You can tell a story and meals retain memories. If dining tables could talk they would be the bards of life.  Every time I see Jo we make these pancakes.  They evolved before my foodie days.  The kind of evolution that happens sleepily searching for a cross between donut comfort and pancake satisfaction after late nights.  The almost sour cream cheese balances the chocolate. They are decadent and perfect when paired with raspberry syrup and great friends.

Jo’s Weekender Pancakes:

1 double batch of pancakes
(Preferably Easy Light Pancakes posted 11/17/10)
2 dark chocolate bars cracked into small pieces or ½ cup of dark chocolate chips
4 oz cream cheese cubed

Sauce

1-2 cups seedless Raspberry Jam

Mix up pancake batter as directed and fold in chocolate. Cut 4oz of brick cream cheese into small cubes or just drop ½ teaspoons full into the batter. Scoop a generous ladle full into a hot greased skillet. When batter bubbles in center flip to other side.

While cooking pancakes reduce raspberry jam over low heat in a small saucepan until transforms into syrup. Serve immediately or place in a 200-degree oven until ready to devour

Pretty Pasta with Winter Pesto

All summer long I grow, eat and harvest basil.  Which means by Fall I am a bit burnt out on the flavor and am ready to move on to squash and cranberries and roasted veg.  What basil I have leftover at the end of season I process into pesto and store it away for New Year.  When I long for a lovely rich green punch I find it in my winter pesto, made with fresh spinach, lemon and walnuts.  This adorns, home made pizza, pasta, tops bagels, fish and stuffs mushrooms.  It weathers the winter months perfectly and by New Year I dig right back into my basil.

Winter Pesto

One bag of spinach or two bunches, stemmed.
2 cups whole walnuts, toasted
4 garlic cloves
Juice of one lemon
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and Parmesan (optional) cheese to taste.

I recommend making pesto only in a food processor as a blender’s motor is not as powerful and it can be a stressful endeavor.

Toast walnuts in a dry pan and pulse in the food processor.  Save the lemon juice and oil to stream in while pureeing. Then add to that the above ingredients. Allow the food processor to run for a few minutes especially if you are going to use as a dip or spread and not add it to hot foods, thereby allowing the lemon juice to cure the spinach a bit.   You want the finished pesto to be a thick paste.  If a bit watery add some grated Parmesan cheese or simple strain through a fine sieve. Enjoy

Winter Pesto Stuffed Mushrooms

Winter Pesto Stuffed Mushroom Caps:

One batch of Winter Pesto
2 packages mushrooms
Parmesan cheese
Bit of walnut or pine nut for garnish

With a dry cloth brush mushrooms clean. Twist stem from each mushroom cap creating a lovely bowl.  Fill each mushroom with a dollop of pesto. Place in a 350 degree oven for 30-45 minutes.  Once steam abates enjoy.

This is simply delicious.  It caught me by surprise when co-worker drought in a batch.  After I gushed, ranted and raved about this dish for an entire afternoon I was gifted the recipe the very next day.  This is a wonderful way to utilize a radish.  It is so flavorful and addictive.  A wonderful gift or addition to any holiday Pitch-in.

Lorna’s Red Radish Dip:
1 cup shredded radish
¼ cup minced onion
8 oz brick of cream cheese
½ cup butter  – softened
½ teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
Dash of salt
Dash of paprika
Dash of cayenne pepper

Whip butter and cream cheese in a stand up or electric mixer then with a rubber spatula fold in remaining ingredients.  Chill for an hour then serve with veg and crackers.

Mama Hofmeister's Mayonnaise with my tweeks

And by mayonnaise I mean salad dressing.

And by salad dressing I mean a thick sweet and sour coleslaw like dressing.

Confused?  I totally understand.

This is my Great Grandmother’s recipe.  She lived in a world before salad dressing meant flavors like: Ranch, French, Russian or 1,000 Island.  When salad dressing was something you cooked up in the kitchen.  This dressing is perfect for coleslaw, a tangy chicken salad, tomato and onion salad, waldrorf salad, cucumber salad, or in place of mayo on a roast turkey sandwich.  I also use it as a fruit and veg dip.  I make this up around the holidays to give to friends.

This is a large batch so is perfect to split.  One jar goes a long way.  I have included two versions.  The original recipe and my own version.

This was my grandmother’s favorite salad dressing.  Sweet and sour, she called it.  Making this I always think of her and all she taught me…  but that is another story.

Mama Hofmeister’s Mayonnaise:
½ cup vinegar
½ cup water
1 cup sugar
2 beaten eggs
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons poppy seeds (optional)

Mix all ingredients in a pan off heat, except poppy seeds.  Over very low heat bring the dressing to a slow boil, stirring constantly.  This dressing will thicken, all of a sudden and very quickly.  Do not stop stirring.  Once bubbles begin to pop and the dressing has thickened remove from heat.  Cool, fold in poppy seeds and transferred to sterilized jars.

Joy’s version:
¼ cup brown sugar
¼ cup white sugar
½ cup raspberry vinegar
½ cup water
2 beaten eggs
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt

Cook as explained above.

Roasted Garlic, Parsley and Course Salt Butter

When it comes to the holiday season I try and make my gifts and have a ton of little treats around the house for holiday parties and if friends drop by.  Herb butter is unexpected and a stellar gift.  Combinations are endless and it keeps for up to two months in the fridge or forever in the freezer.

Consider using lovely molds for extra foodie flair.  I tend to roll then into a log and refrigerate in plastic wrap when it is just for Alfredo and I but for a dinner I use silicone mini baking or ice cube trays or fill teeny demi toss cups.  You can also add to a piping bag and pipe designs onto waxed paper then refrigerate if you are feeling extra artsy.

Please make with caution.  Herb butter is addictive and highly caloric.

Herb butters:

Begin with two cups or 4 sticks of room temp butter unless you just want to use up some leftover butter and then make a batch to taste. Whip or fold the below ingredients into the butter then mold or wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.  If giving as a gift up-cycle some jam or baby food jars!

Cilantro Lime:
Perfect for hot grilled corn in the summer!

Zest of one lime
¼ cup minced cilantro

Sun dried Tomato:
Wonderful on pasta, hot fresh bread or a baked potato

One cup sun dried tomatoes – minced
If stored in oil, rinse and pat dry before adding to the butter

Cracked Pepper and Rosemary:
Perfect for grilled chicken, pork, lamb or roasted veg!

6 sprigs (or to taste) or fresh rosemary – minced
Fresh cracked pepper to taste

Cumin seeds:
I adore cumin seeds.  This butter will knock your socks off.

4 tablespoons (or to taste) cumin seeds
Crack cumin seeds in a pestle and mortar then blend into the butter

Roasted Garlic, Parsley and Course Salt (use unsalted butter):
I could eat this strait!  Perfect for anything.

1 bulb roasted garlic (see September 2, 2010 post for recipe)
¼ cup fresh parsley – minced
Course salt to taste
Remove the garlic cloves from husk and puree until a fine paste.  Blend with butter and parsley then just before refrigerating add a drizzle of course salt, about a tablespoon or more.  Refrigerate immediately so salt does not dissolve.

Cinnamon and Raw Sugar:
Love this on sweet potatoes, banana bread, and perfect in a muffin gift basket.

2 ½ tablespoons cinnamon
4 tablespoons course sugar, such as Sugar in the Raw

Tarragon and Chive:
Wonderful on stakes, grilled burger buns and mushrooms.

1/3 cup fresh Tarragon – minced
4 tablespoons fresh chives – minced

Fennel Frond and Poppy seed:
Perfect served with a brunch frittata.

1/3 cup fennel frond – minced
2 tablespoons poppy seeds

Parsley and Minced Shallot:
Wonderful served with roast turkey, grilled mushrooms or Quorn Turk’y Roast

One large shallot bulb  – minced
¼ cup fresh parsley – minced

A perfect Parmesan rind

This soup is not cheap.  This is a holiday splurge.  Chestnuts are not commonplace in the U.S.  You can find frozen shelled chestnuts at specialty groceries, like Whole Foods. They add a level of starch and texture to this soup that is a pleasant surprise.  Note: if you are using fresh chestnuts, once shelled they also have an outer skin that is fine to eat but will make this soup appear murky.  It does not hurt the flavor. Murky or not this soup is fabulous.  A lot has to do with the Parmesan rind.

Good Parmesan cheese is expensive; especially one with it’s aged rind attached.  But there is nothing like the crystallized salty, dry texture to punch up an apple, pasta, mashed potato, spinach salad, soup, stake…  this list is endless.  Think of this cheese as an addition to each meal you create and the cost will feel justified.  Adding the rind to this soup takes it from pleasant to outstanding (although if you don’t have the budge for it see the Vegan Alternative below).  Ask your local artisan cheese shop if they have any available or have a discounted piece.  They will not be shocked and the worst thing that can happen is you impress them with your artful cooking sense and you form an acquaintance.   Forming relationships with your grocer or specialty shop doesn’t have to cost you, creating an acquaintanceship ensures them a faithful customer, which in the long run will benefit their business.

This soup is simple, but it’s powerful flavor will impress you.  Allowing simple ingredients to speak for themselves always creates artful, amazing dishes.

Chestnut Chickpea Soup

3 liters of water
3 ½ cups chestnuts (Frozen or Fresh)
2 cups chickpeas (hydrated)
2 large or 4 medium Yukon gold potatoes, peeled rough chopped
2 bay leaves
1 yellow onion, quartered
2 bouillon cubes (veg or chicken)
1 tablespoon nutmeg
Salt and Pepper to taste
Parmesan cheese rind (about 3-4 inches long, or use what you have)

Soak about 1 ½ cups of chickpeas in a bowl of water over night.  (See instructions on roasting chest nuts for prepping guide).  Rinse and place in a stockpot with shelled chestnuts and cook on high in salted water or broth until tender (about an hour).  Or throw into a pressure cooker and boil on high for about 30 minutes.  Remove and transfer to soup.  If using canned beans and frozen chestnuts you may skip this step.

In a large stockpot add all ingredients. Boil on medium-high for about an hour.  Fish out the parmesan rind and bay leaves. Check to see that the chestnuts are soft to the center and the chickpeas and potatoes are falling apart.  Taste to broth to make sure you have enough salt and pepper and purée using a hand blender, blender or food mill.  You want this soup to be creamy but not too thick.  Add more water if it is stew-ish. Best the next day.  Serve with a dash of fresh nutmeg on top.

Alternatives

Vegan:  Omit the cheese rind and add roasted garlic.  The soup will be a dash sweeter, but still wonderful.

Castanhas ~ Char Roasted Chestnuts

It’s the holidays and we all know the song, but have you ever roasted chestnuts on am open fire?  I have.  In Portugal they make and sell a wonderful terracotta pot specifically for this purpose.  Whether you roast them by fire or oven, they are a wonderful snack or paired with fruit and cheese after a meal.

You want to be careful picking chestnuts.  If you pick them from the ground after the frost they can be bitter.  If you pick them from the grocery you want to make sure that the outer shell is shrunk tight to the nut inside and that they shine up when polished with your finger.  Do not buy chestnuts whose shells have begun to pull away from the nut and are springing.  These are not good.

Roast Chestnuts

Prep:

Put a full tea kettle to boil.  With a very sharp knife carefully cut into the shell around the length of the nut.  Then in a bowl douse then in boiling water with salt.  This will cause them to not explode and while roasting the shell will begin to pull away from the nut.  Leave then in the water until it is cool enough to remove then.

By fire:  Splurge, especially if you have a chestnut tree, and purchase a special chestnut roaster with holes in the pan and a long handle for roasting on the open flames or wrap the soaked nuts in a tinfoil pouch with salt and toss into the fire for about 30 minutes. Then remove and let sit until cool enough to unwrap, shell and enjoy.

Oven: preheat until about 450 degrees.  Place soaked nuts on a baking sheet with course salt and roast until you can smell them, about 30-40 minutes.

Eat immediately!

Some people do drugs…  I do dinner parties. I like nothing more then to whip together a killer meal (stay within my budget) and host a dinner for friends.  I actually love sitting at a table for hours and relish in course after fabulous course.

I know I am not alone, but I also know that I am not among the masses.  I never stress about a dinner but it certainly takes multiple days and some proper planning so… on this Thanksgiving Eve I thought I would take some time to give some of my tried and true tips to make this day of feast and family go smoothly.

For the guest:

A hostess gift is always appreciated.  If you are asked to bring something to contribute then this is your gift.  If you are simply invited to attend nothing says gracious like a bottle of wine, san pellegrino or chocolate. If you would really like to show your appreciation for the host then a heart felt gift for the home is a lovely tribute.  This is not necessary but if you are meeting someone for the first time and you want to make a wonderful first impression then a small token will make you all the more memorable.  Here are some ideas: Flowers, something from the garden or the pantry, like homemade jam or a bunch of fresh veg or herbs, a small candle, a nice box of tea or coffee, something you’ve made, such as a small piece of art or a photograph, or simply a card will really make your host’s evening on top of the gift of your company.   Do not go overboard, keep it small, affordable and classy.

For the Host:

When I host a dinner I first ask the guests if they have any food allergies.  I once hosted a dinner for a friend and made a savory bread pudding (Acorda de Camarao) and it turned out he had a gluten allergy.  Thank god that was not the main course.  This will also open the floor for your guests to let you know if they are Vegan, Vegetarian, Pescetarian, etc. so you may plan your menu with them in mind.

To prepare for the dinner I clean my house the day before the party.  This insures no last minute stress.  I also try and do any prep work or cooking that can be done the evening before.

The day of the dinner I have a game plan. I study my recipes and know my prep/cook/bake time frame.  I want my dishes to come out slightly after my guests arrive so we are eating a hot meal.  So if dinner is at 7:30 I give my guests a 15 minute window to arrive and am bringing the meal to table between 7:50-8pm.  Keeping this window of time insures that a traffic jam will not ruin my lovely dinner!

Even before I start cooking I always pour myself a glass of wine and set the table.  I love setting a beautiful table.  I appreciate how utility and beauty unite to make a wonderful place setting as I was a ceramics teacher and working potter for many years.  This also gets me excited and sets the mood.  I never rush, I take my time and enjoy the process of creating food.  I find art in cooking and I find the most successful dinner is one that is prepared with love and respect.  Cheesy as it reads this is true:  nothing is fun about cooking when you are stressed.  Life is too short to not have fun in all that you do.

I always make sure to have all my dishes done and put away before I begin cooking.  I am proactive and tackle cleaning the posts and pans as I cook through them. I keep a sink of hot fresh soap suds or an empty dishwasher to wash up between and after the meal.  I have Tupperware ready for leftovers and if I am feeding a bachelor or a non-cook I always make them a to-go sack to take home. If there are leftovers!

I rarely leave cleaning up for the next day.  No matter the time I barrel through.  I find that dishes done and house restored allow you to relish in your success.  If you wake up to dried ugly food stained dishes, crusted wine glasses and used pots and pans it destroys all the hard work and joy of the night before.  I learned this the hard way.  I use to treat Alfredo like my scullery maid until he went on strike and left me to clean up my appalling mess from a dinner for 8, after that I was a reformed foodie. If your guests offer to help between courses and your kitchen is damaged with your whirlwind cooking spree, you might be too embarrassed to say yes or they may feel obligated to help tackle the mess rather then return to the table.  15 minutes of cleaning is the gift that keeps on giving when it comes to dinners.

The key to any dinner as a guest or host is to enjoy yourself, appreciate what you are given and experience a great meal.  Don’t sweat the small stuff and if it helps you can steal my opening line:  “Well let’s dig in and if it’s crap we’ll call for a pizza.”

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

This dish has made the rounds from holiday party to cocktail party and it transitions beautifully.  Around the holidays my favorite chain grocery, ALDI, always has nova lox (smoked salmon) on sale as a special promotion and it is half  the regular price.  If you haven’t stopped by one lately I highly recommend, especially during the holiday season.  They go all out.  It is a foodie paradise from Goat Cheese to Belgium Chocolates and kitchen gadgets you never know what surprise awaits you.

My old local deli, The Butcher’s Block, in Bloomington, IN sells a hot-smoked salmon which has a dry texture and hot house smokey flavor. If you are normally turned off by nova lox see if your local butch has this alternative.  Traditional nova lox has a moist, almost gummy texture.  Both are delicious.

Smoked Salmon Spread:

One 8 oz brick of cream cheese
One 3 oz package of nova lox or hot-smoked salmon
One bundle of green onions (scallions)
salt and pepper to taste
Optional:
About 1 cup of shaved almonds
One Envelope Knorr Vegetable Soup Mix (for vegetarian option)

Open your package of smoked salmon.  Dice or toss into a food processor and pulse.  Next slice 1/2 a bundle of green onions, both white and green parts of the stalk.  In a stand up mixer or with a standard electric mixer whip the salmon, onions, cream cream cheese and add some salt and pepper to taste. Serve with a relish, crudites or cracker tray. Also perfect on hot fresh local bagels!

Alternative:

Foodie Flare:

Creating the Perfect Holiday Cheese Ball!

Add a few drops of olive oil to a skillet and toast about one cup of shaved almonds with a toss of course salt until they are chestnut brown but not burnt.  Remove from pan and allow to cool while whipping your smoked salmon spread.  Lay your toasted almonds out on a wide plate and using a rubber spatula form your spread into a ball and with your hands roll spread in the almonds to create a luscious crunchy crust. Only slightly messy this is totally worth the effort!

Vegetarian option:

I learned this trick when I worked at Grains and Grinds Bagel Cafe in High School. It was an amazing New York Style deli and bagel shop in South Bend, IN that unfortunately closed it’s doors some years ago.  I have to give them all the credit for this awesome vegetarian spread!

Open the envelope of Knorr soup mix.  I am partial to the vegetable, but the spinach or onion would also work well.  Heat a kettle of water and add a few table spoons of hot water to rehydrate the dried veg slightly.  Do not make this a soup or it will not blend with the cream cheese.  Whip into cream cheese and coat with the toasted almonds.  I love serving this for brunch with HOT LOCAL bagels and coffee for friends. Enjoy!